An East Coast legend in-the-making, Canadian singer/songwriter Ryan Cook has been making music since 2007, banking over 700 performances across Canada and Nashville since then. With his unique style of classic country blended with a bit of folk, a touch of jazz and hint of bluegrass, Ryan Cook has been dominating the East Coast and beyond. From his hometown of Yarmouth, Nova Scotia, he grew up against the grain of country music that surrounded him. Over time he went from playing in punk rock and death metal bands to gradually falling for the nostalgia of country – then made it his own.

Photo courtesy of ryancook.ca.

Ryan won the 2008 and 2011 Music Nova Scotia Country/Bluegrass Album of the Year award, garnering 12 nominations collectively since 2007 from both the East Coast Music Awards and Music Nova Scotia. I had the chance to catch up with him in South Korea as he wound down his three and a half month tour of Asia.

Photo courtesy of ryancook.ca.

1. What inspired this trip to Asia?

My motivation was that it’s always been in my heart to see Asia but only now at age 33 was I able to get past my fear of flying to make it a reality. That coupled with my independence as a self-employed musician and just enough money to pull it off made it feasible for me to do this now. I also wanted to make connections with my music and perhaps open up some avenues for performing outside of North America. I only partially fulfilled this portion of intentions though as a few things happened along the way that forced me to consider spending my time learning and listening to the people and culture before sizing up what parts of it I could turn into profit.

2. You’re a musician. You must have some favourite travel albums. Care to share your top 5 with KIK readers?

Most defitntely! Here’s what I listened to on my recent trip:

1. The Four Freshmen Four complete albums Disc 1-2

2. The Beach Boys All Summer Long

3. Merle Travis Live in Boston 1959

4. Northern Thai Folks Songs (Unknown Artist, purchased at Night Bazzar in Chiang Mai)

5. Podcasts: Joe Rogan Experience, Bill Burr, Vice, This American Life, RadioLab and others.

3. You spent a month in Nepal, 2 months in Thailand and a week in both Malaysia and South Korea. That’s a long way from home. Did you embark on this trip on your own?

My cousin Barry (60 years old) was with me throughout the first month in Nepal and I owe a great deal to him. Not only for his patience and guidance but for the inspiration to travel in the first place. If I had done the whole thing alone I would have made many mistakes and lost a bunch of money in the process. I’d highly recommend traveling for the first time with a seasoned vet but then again who wouldn’t?

Ryan in Kathmandu, Nepal at the Utse Hotel.

The beach in Koh Chang, Thailand.

4. What surprised you most about a) Nepal b) Thailand c) Malaysia and d) South Korea?

Nepal: The pollution, I was simply not prepared for. The urine and sewage I was prepared for (I think) but the actual smog from vehicles and machinery was not something that was easy for me to transition to. I was also very surprised by how cold it could be in Nepal. I actually left Nepal two weeks earlier than planned because of the weather and pollution. I could feel subtle respiratory effects the whole time I was there and often felt sick just from walking the streets.

Pokhara, Nepal.

Pokhara, Nepal.

Pokhara Nepal fishing boats.

Thailand: I was surprised by how civil everything was in Thailand. Coming from Nepal (my first non-North American experience) Thailand seemed very civil and clean by comparison. I was also greatly surprised by how much I did not like the Thai food. I expected to love it but the way it’s prepared is too greasy for me. It was mostly street food – nothing fancy. I like to cook Thai food on my own but did not enjoy eating it while in Thailand.

Pad thai in Pai, Thailand.

Cooking class Chaing Mai, Thailand.

Malaysia: Malaysia was the only place that was almost as I envisioned it. When I was 19 a friend and I hatched a plan to move to Malaysia so we did a lot of reading and research on it. As a result it was really quite like I expected and I absolutely loved it. I did not find it to be as expensive as other travellers had suggested. I was also overwhelmed by the food in Malaysia and I wanted it all. It was a completely different food experience from Thailand.

Little India in Malaysia.

Ryan devours a meal at Little India in Malaysia.

Royal India in Chiang Mai, Thailand.

South Korea: At first Korea seemed cold and dreary and my money didn’t seem to go very far. That being said, I had the most fun of my entire trip while in Korea. I think perhaps the company I kept had something to do with it. The rest of my trip was mostly a solo adventure. The surprises never ended while I was there. It was so dramatically different from the three other Asian countries I visited. Korea felt very prosperous and modern and outside of the February cold, the people were amazingly friendly and hip.

Ryan performs at an English academy in Hopyeong, Gyeonggi-do South Korea.

Yongma Land abandoned amusement park in Seoul.

5. Which country’s cuisine was your favourite?

Malaysia was my favourite because of the combination of equally available Indian, Malay, Chinese and middle-eastern food. You can have it all in Malaysia and it’s authentic which was refreshing.

Authentic Lebanese food in Bangkok, Thailand.

6. From what you saw, what do you think is the biggest misconception about the countries you traveled through? 

Nepal: The biggest misconception that I had personally was that it would be warm because it’s in Asia. This is not the case in December. Nepal is mostly as affordable as it’s cited to be but I found every country to be a bit more expensive than research indicated. For example in Nepal there is as much as 24% added tax at select restaurants and hotels which really adds up. A good gauge when researching a travel destination is to add 15% to everything you see. That paints a more balanced picture.

Pokhara Nepal.

Pokhara, Nepal.

Pokhara, Nepal.

Thailand: The sex tourism was more intense than I had considered in Thailand. I always thought of Thailand as being a “provocative” place but sex is almost literally the lubricant that runs that nation. Sex is very much a part of the culture in every way. I was most surprised by how unhealthy the available food was as well. So much refined sugar and processed food; I have no idea how they do it. It was very difficult to eat healthy in Thailand. I gained weight while I was there.

The Atlanta, Bangkok Thailand 1952 period hotel.

Malaysia: More affordable then the travel guides would lead you to believe. It may seem a bit expensive compared to Thailand but you also get more for your money in Malaysia. The motels/guesthouses are generally nicer and the food is far superior. For example I paid $55/night (CAD) for a really nice 4 star hotel with a patio in Pattaya, Thailand but only $40/night (CAD) for an equally impressive 4 star hotel in downtown Georgetown, Malaysia that included a free buffet breakfast. These prices are high but I was traveling with another Canadian at the time so all costs were split.

Koh Chang, Thailand.

Beach cuisine in Ko Chang Thailand.

South Korea: I was surprised by how honest and safe Korea is. Unless of course you are at a live karaoke bar on the wrong side of Seoul and you decide to sing Stevie Wonder. (There was a bit a of bar brawl there that KIK was witness to. Apparently some people never learned how to share the mic.)

Ryan with the owner of the Live Cafe karaoke bar in Hopyeong. Sing at your own risk.

Fun with friends and strangers on the Seoul subway.

7. What would you advise a future traveler to Asia to pack in their suitcase?

If you work from a lap-top or use one in your daily life and are in any way relying on it, a tablet will not work as a replacement. I attempted (and failed) to transition to working primarily from an iPad/Bluetooh keyboard for this trip and it was highly regrettable. I was shooting high-definition footage and wanted to edit and post pictures and video which is doable on an iPad but the compression was maddening. Ultimately I had my computer shipped over to Asia. A tablet cannot replace a lap-top unless you have very minimal needs such as social networking and light e-mail.

Sunday night walking street market in Chiang Mai, Thailand.

8. If you could tell a newly arriving traveler to Asia something you wish you were told, what would it be?

Listen as much as possible to who and what is around you. Spend more time listening than talking. You will learn to be patient. You will find that everyone has a story. You will also learn a great deal more about yourself then you would expect. Being in a foreign place does not change who you are or make your life more exciting. If you are an introverted person at home you will be an introvert in Thailand. There are ways around this and one suggestion is to stay in dorm room with multiple bunks. This may force you out of your comfort zone just enough to try something new.

New friends in Thamel, Khatmandu Nepal.

New friends at Kim’s Bar in Guri, Gyeonggi-do South Korea.

Ryan Cook is currently residing in Ontario and eagerly awaiting spring while booking shows for 2015. His future travel plans include hopes of returning to Asia in 2016 but nothing is certain as of yet. If he does travel that far again, India and China are on the short list, as well as Cuba and Mexico. The western side of the United States is also on his radar, namely Arizona and California. To get in touch with Ryan, check out ryancook.ca as well as his Facebook and Twitter.

Check out Ryan’s performance of “Sun” with seven year-old senior kindergarteners the Purple Class, here:

Special shout-out to Sarah Collins for teaching “Sun” to the Purple Class!

Also check out his new video called “Merle Travis Medley” from Ryan Cook & The Valley Singers right here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3XMNtutXD0

Sample his new album Wrestling with Demons here. 

Until next time Dear Readers, stay warm and be well.

*All photos courtesy of Ryan Cook.

Last week’s post was heavy, looking back on the Cu Chi tunnels of the Vietnam War. To lighten things up, I’m proud to present a piece I’ve been working on for a while: The Awesomeness of Pencil Cases in Korea. I have long been an admirer of my students’ stationery supplies. Those who know me well know that I have a weakness and it goes by the name of Morning Glory stationary shops. I love pens, notebooks, sticky tabs and all things organizational.

After years of pencil case appreciation in the classroom, I’ve finally managed to compile some examples to show you here. Before I get started I’d like to remind everyone that of course there are “normal,” “plain” pencil cases that exist here too, but who cares? That doesn’t make for good writing. I’m about to show you the best of the best from my kids, grades 3 through 5. The grade 6 kids get too cool for funky pencil cases and start to feel the pressures of adolescence at which time, blending in is often easiest. Without further ado, let’s do this! (click on any photo to enlarge)

First and foremost, these are amazing. They are called “zip-it” brand pencil cases and they are sometimes in the shape of a monster (as shown) but sometimes just a rectangular pencil case made of one huge unzippable zipper.

My student kindly does a demonstration.

Next, I’d like to address the sometimes ludicrous English messages printed on pencil cases here. Often the messages are sweet and cheerful while others send chills down my spine.

This one reads, “The Anne Story: Planning is bringing the future into the present so that you can do something about it now.”

That’s pretty deep discussion. I just wanted to borrow an eraser. Let’s move on.

“When you want something, the universe conspires in helping you to achieve it.”

Mmmm…’k…Not necessarily true but moving on…

I don’t even know what to say. That one makes no sense at all, but the cartoon girl is cool.

“I can endure so my own despair, but not…another’s hope.”

Wow. That’s just dark. Definitely not borrowing an eraser from you. You just stay the hell away from me.

Let’s leave the dark side and enter the land of pretty vintage dolls printed on a lot of popular cases these days.

Teddy bears are always a classic choice as well, although more popular with the younger kids.

All right that’s enough cute. Now onto the weird and borderline gross. The “Larva” cartoon characters are really popular with kids these days. They are literally larva. In cartoon form. What the hell Korea? Seriously. The first pic shows the two main characters while one farts a cloud of faeces, much to his friend’s displeasure.

The next one showcases Mr. Farty Pants eating a mini hot dog snack while his larva and bacterial/blueberry friend watch in horror. (This one actually folds out into a 2-tier case which is pretty cool.)

For the grand finale I’d like to show you some of my favourite pencil cases, for no reason other than I think they’re awesome.

A milk jug-shaped pencil case! Genius.

It’s an otter! His back unzips and the zipper tag is his tail :)

Shiny. I love shiny.

This one is made with traditional Korean designs.

That’s it for this week folks. Thanks for indulging me as I complete another life goal here in Korea. My kids had fun showing off their pencil cases and no larva were harmed in the making of this post. Next week I’ll be interviewing Canadian musician Ryan Cook. Stay tuned and be well!

Many people of my generation mostly know the Vietnam War as it was chronicled in the movies. We watched Robin Williams shout, “follow the Ho Chi Minh Trail!” as the upstart radio DJ for the armed forces in Saigon in Good Morning Vietnam. We watched Forrest, Bubba and Lieutenant Dan fight in the Vietnam war while Jenny protested against it in Forrest Gump. Apocalypse Now and Full Metal Jacket are among others that come to mind.

For those born a decade (or more) after the war ended, we relied on history books and the memories from our elders when we got old enough to ask. That is why the opportunity to tour the Cu Chi tunnels and walk inside the walls of history meant so much.

Bal and I stand next to an abandoned tank. Painted on the side it reads, “American M41 tank destroyed by a delay mine in 1970.”

The Cu Chi district in Ho Chi Min City (formerly Saigon), held significance because it was a Viet Cong stronghold during the Vietnam War and was labeled a “free-fire zone” by the US military. A free-fire/free-strike or free-target zone is an area where everyone in the region is deemed hostile and all are seen as legitimate targets by opposing military forces.

The remains of a B52 bomb crater.

During the Vietnam War (roughly 1960-1973 although many say the US was involved since 1955) South Vietnamese forces were backed by American troops and had better supplies and manpower as a result. The communist North Vietnamese known as the Viet Cong had to come up with other ways to survive the war and defend their land. This is where the intricate network of the Cu Chi tunnels comes into play.

Our first meeting place where we sit with other tour groups to watch a propaganda video about the horrors of the Vietnam War. To the left is a map of the tunnels and to the right is a replica model to show the layers of tunnels.

The top layer was used for fighting and surveillance. The next layer down was sleeping quarters, makeshift hospitals and meeting rooms. The lowest levels were used for cooking and washing. The long sticks running up to the surface were ventilation infrastructures, made from bamboo.

A secret ventilation hole from inside the tunnels. Ventilation holes were covered by mounds of clay that looked like termite hives, providing cover from passing US military men and their dogs.

Our tour guide, Fa, draws me a diagram with a rock to illustrate the path of the Ho Chi Minh Trail that runs the length of the main highway with multiple exit points along border countries.

Here’s a better version of Fa’s stonework. You can see how the trail runs along the HCM highway. (Click to enlarge.)
Photo courtesy of activetravelvietnam.com

The Indochinese Communist Party (ICP) actually began tunnel excavations under the town of Cu Chi from as far back as the 1940s, covering over 250km by the time the Vietnam War started. Tunnel construction is estimated to have begun when the French forces attacked the Viet Minh (ICP guerrilla forces) in 1946, igniting a push of resistance against colonial powers.

Considering the Vietnamese were colonized by the French for over 60 years starting from the late 1800s, then further invaded by Japan during World War II, it’s easy to see why they were fed up with invaders on their land.

A replica shows how the Vietnamese began making the tunnels decades before the Vietnam War in attempts to evade French occupiers.

Our trip to the Cu Chi tunnels took us about 60km outside of Ho Chi Minh City. There are two tunnel sections open for tourists: The Ben Din tunnel and the Ben Duoc Tunnel. We went to the Ben Dinh site.

Outside bunker/classroom number 2.

Inside classroom number 2. There were 5 classrooms in total.

a bunker used as a kitchen.

An escape tunnel off of the kitchen in case of bombings in the middle of meal prep.

One of the dining bunkers where soldiers ate.

The VC used the underground network to move war supplies, house soldiers, hold military meetings, survive US air raids and to implement surprise attacks of their own. The tunnels were infested with scorpions, snakes, ants and other creepy crawlers. Malaria was also rampant in the tunnels and was the second leading cause of death among the VC, next to war injuries.

Bombs and shells from the US Army.

Fa demonstrates how the Vietcong soldiers took apart dead bombs from the US Army to make their own weapons. The twig sticking out of the disc would be rolled over by army tanks, detonating the land mine.

A photo of the Vietcong bringing an undetonated bomb to their weapons bunker to make their own tools of defence.

Sandals made by the Vietnamese from scrap tire rubber.

US soldiers eventually found entrances into the tunnels and sent men in to defeat the enemy. American troops who went into the tunnels were mostly met with booby traps, dead-ends and hand-to-hand combat resulting in death. 

A replica bamboo spike trap shows visitors how the Viet Cong booby-trapped the jungle floor.

We have decided to go into the tunnels and are all a little nervous. Exits are set up every 10 meters in case visitors panic. This news is comforting.

Yours truly, about to descend into the Cu Chi fighting tunnel. No big deal.

Down in the first phase of the tunnel, these stairs descend into the narrow part that goes on for miles.

Inside the tunnel it was narrow, low and humid. It didn’t take long to work up a sweat.

Bal and I after surviving the 10 meter crawl. We were trying to be cool but were shaken nonetheless. Days and months down there  seems unimaginable.

Fa demonstrates how the VC snipers would utilize their exit points. Shooters would fire under the cover of leaves, then slide the panel back over their head to hide.

Fa explains how the VC made ridges with the clay-like earth to prevent rain from running into the mouths of the tunnels.

Another shooting point for snipers to pop in and out of unseen.

The Vietnamese government have since sanctioned certain sections of the fighting tunnels as tourist destinations for visitors to get a glimpse of how the Viet Cong developed (and to many – perfected) underground guerrilla warfare. The areas of tunnel deemed safe enough for tourists have been enlarged to fit the body types of most tourists, yet still we felt suffocated after crawling for only 10 meters.

A “fish” spike trap, set in murky swamp water, waiting for someone to step into.

A rolling spike trap, meant to repeatedly puncture the victim as they fall down into the pit.

Assorted spike traps on display.

Another spike trap, this one set to unhinge and swing at he who opens the door to a house where he is unwelcome.

Upon arrival our guide told us not, under any circumstances, to veer off the walking path or into the jungle. One reason was that it was still a jungle (although a heavily-treaded one) and snakes and scorpions were lurking in the quiet corners. Another reason was that there were still VC land mines in the jungle that hadn’t been found yet. Most were detonated during the war and in the years of rebuilding the area, but not all were accounted for. What a way to make sure your guests stay in line! That kept things real for all of us.

Despite the huge sigh of relief when we made it safely back onto the bus, I was thrilled to have had the chance to walk through such an enormous landmark of our time. Next to visiting the demilitarized zone in North Korea, this adventure was one of the best trips through history I have ever taken.

P.S. Happiest of birthdays to my Pops! Next year I’ll be there to celebrate with you :)

Remnants of the My Son Sanctuary (pronounced “me-sun”) stand in the jungle of Quang Nam province in Vietnam, a region once known as the Amaravati Champa Kingdom. This site was once the spiritual center of worship for the Champa people from the 2nd-15th century.

The My Son Sanctuary was a hindu temple, mostly devoted to the worship of the God-King Srisanabhadresvara and the god of destruction, Shiva. The temple grounds fell out of use the 15th century and sat forgotten in the jungle until the French uncovered it in the late 1800s and began the temple’s excavation and restoration.

Myself and Bal envision the high times of the Champa reign.

Kamila and Bal walk through the temple ruins. Is anyone else reminded of the movie Labyrinth?

The complex consists of over 70 monuments and temples, covering 142 hectares (350 acres) in central Vietnam, not far from the city of Hoi An. Most structures have deteriorated due to old age and bombing during the Vietnam war but today, 20 structures still stand and are open to visitors daily.

…I have fought my way here to the castle beyond the Goblin City to take back the child that you have stolen. For my will is as strong as yours, and my kingdom is as great…

My Son temple ruins were declared a Unesco World Heritage site in 1999.

Fallen pillars get slowly engulfed by grass.

Welcome to my humble home!

A storage building, entrance door can be seen on the right.

We booked our tour through our hotel (the Moon Homestay) and $8 (CAD) covered our ride to and from the site as well as the entrance fee to the grounds. Although these ruins show only a fracture of what it once was, the power of this majestic site can still be felt. Standing on these grounds was a once in a lifetime experience I’ll never forget and despite the heat and insane amount of tour groups, I recommend a visit if you find yourself in Hoi An with a few hours to spare.

Our tour guide in particular wasn’t very good, but then again we were spoiled by Kevin on the Halong Bay cruise. Other guides (who we eavesdropped on) did a much better job of informing the visitors of this magnificent landmark, so if you get a shoddy guide, just stalk another group!

During the 16th and 17th centuries, Hoi An developed into an international trading hub in central Vietnam. Merchant ships from Japan, China, India and the Netherlands among others did business in this port city and over time, those traders set up quarters and stayed permanently. This led to a unique cultural mix in Hoi An that can still be seen today. Visitors can buy a ticket pack in the ancient town for 120,000 Vietnamese dong (approx $6 CAD) that allows entrance into 5 venues of about 20 places of interest. Categories include old traditional homes, Chinese-style communal houses, museums and Chinese assembly halls. We were told the ticket package was good for 2 days, even though the ticket stub says only 24 hours. We used the last of our tickets the following day and were allowed entrance with no problem. Tickets look like this:

Here are the 5 places we chose to visit:

1) Minh Huong Temple

In the mid-17th century, Chinese refugees found their way to Vietnam and were granted asylum in many provinces across southern Vietnam. Hoi An was the first region to grant the Chinese citizenship, titles and the rights to manage trade with overseas countries. Evidence of Chinese influence can still be seen in the communal houses, temples and assembly halls in modern day Hoi An.

Outside of the Minh Huong Temple.

We went to the Minh Huong Temple, built in 1820 but destroyed and rebuilt many times over centuries of war. Although the temple has been renovated with great care, the interior of the temple wasn’t deemed good enough to be a place of worship. The building has since been transformed into a tourist attraction and was recognized as a place of national cultural heritage in 1993.

The outer courtyard.

Inside the temple.

2) Hoi An Museum of History and Culture

This museum was housed in another temple-turned-tourist attraction, showcasing artifacts of mostly Chinese, Indian and Persian culture that came into use in Hoi An through international trade. The outside courtyard was beautiful and calming. I can only imagine what it must have been like to go there to worship so long ago.

Outside the Museum of History and Culture.

The inner courtyard.

Inside each room was lined with glass cases displaying everything from old kitchenware to old currencies.

Old signature stamps, scrolls and other office supplies.

Old tools and weapons, a clearer, a spade and a knife.

3) Museum of Folk Culture

This museum was inside an old house, connecting through the courtyards with a series of overpassing walkways and stairs. The rooms held replicas of old looms, traditional fishing tools, clothing and bedroom displays.

4) Assembly Hall of the Cantonese Chinese Congregation

This assembly hall was used as a meeting place and also a place of worship for the Cantonese citizens who lived in Hoi An. It was dusk and we were followed in by a Chinese tour group of about 30 people so picture-taking became a race against the setting sun and the crowds. We managed to snap a few good shots nonetheless.

Outside the assembly hall, the tour group descends upon us.

Inside the hall.

The outer courtyard.

5) The Japanese Covered Bridge

The Japanese covered bridge was built in the late 1500s by Japanese residents of the town now known as Hoi An. It was built over a stream to increase business with the Chinese neighbourhood across the water. Over the centuries, the Chinese and Vietnamese citizens maintained the condition of the bridge and eventually built a small temple inside, dedicated to the god Bac De Tran Vo (Emperor of the North).

Inside the bridge, the temple sits on the left side of the walk way.

Inside the temple, a table for offerings and worship is still in use. Many visitors lit incense, made donations and prayed.

One entrance is guarded by a pair of monkey gods and the other entrance by a pair of dog gods. This unique bridge became a symbol of multiculturalism between the Japanese, Chinese and Vietnamese people over the years. A plaque on the bridge claims supernatural powers have been evident on this bridge over the last 400 years and locals believe it is still a sacred place of pride for the people of Hoi An.

Myself and Bal with one of the two monkey gods who guard the entrance.

One of the dog gods who guard the other entrance.

I hope you enjoyed our little tour of the ancient town of Hoi An. I’d love to return there one day, maybe retire and live off of coconuts and fresh spring rolls. Growing old is looking good! Until next time Dear Readers, be well.

Six days into our stay in the northern region of Vietnam, we boarded a plane headed for the central area. Our flight took us to Danang, but our destination was 20 minutes south to the coastal city of Hoi An. If ever there was a paradise on earth, I imagine my version would be a lot like Hoi An.

My new sun hat :)

Kamila and Bal show off their new summer slacks.

It was my favourite part of Vietnam (aside from Halong Bay) as the weather was hot yet not sticky and the crowds were vibrant yet not intense. It was the perfect balance of climate and atmosphere paired with some of the best food I’ve ever had.

Seafood with veggies and noodles.

Homemade Pho for breakfast, made by the Moon Homestay staff.

Fried tofu with sauteed duck in the background.

Fresh spring rolls, Vietnamese style.

Recently chopped coconut outside a shop door.

Dried coconut husks line a patch of sidewalk.

Our hotel, which was a large house transformed into a homestay called the “Moon Homestay” was clean, beautiful and filled with large windows that showcased the landscape. At first glance out the window, I was in love with the town. I didn’t get any good shots of the interior of our room (our stuff was all over the place), but I can tell you I felt like a princess for those few days.

The view from our bedroom window at the Moon homestay, looking down on neighbouring backyards. Each had their own family of chickens and roosters!

The view from our shared balcony, looking onto the front of the homestay. The dolphin seen in the pool is just a tile print, not the real thing.

We did a lot of walking around to explore our new sunny surroundings. Next week’s article will showcase Hoi An’s Ancient Town, a World Heritage protected site since 1999. For now, I will show you the city of Hoi An as we walked through it.

One of the things Hoi An is best known for is their world-class tailors and seamstresses. Many tourists flock to central Vietnam with plans of getting personally tailored suits or dresses made just for them. The cost is about what you would pay in a department store, only it’s been made just for you. Not everyone has a gifted seamstress in the family like I do (Nana V) so you can see where the attraction lies.

Sample wares on the main floor of our homestay in Hoi An, Vietnam.

Fabric swatches cover the desk of our homestay owner, Moon.

Seamstress shop Ba-Ri, where we purchased some made-to-order clothes.

Captivating threads at one of the many clothing shops that line the streets of Hoi An.

A rooster doubles as security at a local dress shop.

Taking a walk near some rice paddy fields not far from our homestay.

The edge of the Ancient Town district at dusk.

That’s it for this week’s edition. Stay tuned next week for a tour of the Ancient City!

One place that was often suggested at the mention of Vietnam was Halong Bay. I set forth on some research and discovered the best way to see the bay was not to get a room on the coast, but to take a boat cruise and sleep on the bay itself. One night, two day or two nights, three day tours are available from many different companies but we chose the one night trip with Halong Legacy Cruises. We were picked up early in the morning and driven almost four hours from Hanoi out to the coast of Halong Bay.

En route from the mainland to our cruise ship! Our tour guide Kevin Tran scans the waters behind me.

See that huge ship? Ours is the little one in front of it, called the “Halong Legacy Cruise 2.”

Once on our cruise ship, we had a wonderful spread of food for lunch, then got checked into our rooms and given time to relax. After that we took off to the Cave of Surprise, also known as Hang Sung Sot to do some exploring.

On our way to the caves inside Hang Sung Sot.

Our approach to Hang Hung Sot, or “the Cave of Surprise.” We walked through the inside of this mountain!

About to enter the Cave of Surprise!

Our fearless team leader, Kevin, as we assemble at the mouth of the cave.

Inside the Cave of Surprise.

Group shot of our fellow shipmates inside the cave.

From the top of Hang Sung Sot.

Bal, Kamila and I at the top of the mountain.

Another view from the top.

Once back onboard the Halong Legacy Cruise 2, we got a lesson on making traditional fresh Vietnamese spring rolls from Kevin.

Our lesson begins…

Then we are all judged on our efforts in hopes of being the best student. Bal seems happy, although she did not win the competition.

After an amazing dinner fit for a king, we were treated to some more cultural lessons from our team leader.

Kevin teaches us some traditional Vietnamese drinking games. We were all focused as we studied the rules.

Let the games begin! This one was a hand-slapping game. We also learned one called “Bang, Bang, Aaah!”

The next morning we woke up early for some Tai Chi and got to enjoy the view of Halong Bay as the sun rose on the water.

The morning calm.

After breakfast we were escorted via rowboats to see a village built on water. These villages used to be more common in Halong Bay and surrounding areas but over time the government has persuaded most villagers to move inland for better jobs and education. The water village we observed was one of the last.

On our way to see a water village in Halong Bay.

Our view on the way to the water village.

Eventually we docked at a pearl harvesting building where we learned about the world of clams and other aquatic money-makers that the water village people have perfected over time.

Our lesson on harvesting clams in search of pearls.

Back to the cruise ship, it was time for lunch and checking out while the ship pushed towards the mainland. On the bus ride back we were discussing the famous Vietnamese hot pot meal (similar to shabu shabu in Korea) when Kevin suggested a place that made some of the best in town. We talked with some other shipmates and those who had the time were able to join us for one last meal back on solid ground.

Some of our shipmates having one last meal together.

The contents of Vietnamese seafood hotpot part one.

Contents part two.

After dinner we had some drinks at a bar. Seats spilled into the streets until no pavement could be found. Still, motorbikes managed to wade through the crowds.

On our way out to the ship our tour guide Kevin said wanted us to be like a family. By the end of the 48 hours, I think he got his wish. It was a wonderful adventure packed into two days and one so amazing that we kept it going even after the tour was over. We made friends from Germany, France, England, Australia, New York and Brazil. Considering our shipmate assignments were pretty much a random draw, we all felt lucky to have been paired up with the folks on our ship.

The captain, crew and chefs were all amazing so I highly recommend Halong Legacy Cruise if you’re looking for a trip out to Halong Bay. We booked with their company and had a wonderful, knowledgable tour guide who took fantastic care of us for the entire two days.  Ask for Kevin and tell him Karli in Korea sent you!

Our rides were technically bicycle-powered rickshaws, but many Vietnamese people use the Thai word for rickshaw which is “tuk tuk” or just called them bike taxis.  Either way, it was a pretty neat way to see the city. We needed to check out a hotel we had booked for a few nights later and the manager of our current hotel suggested we do the tuk tuk ride instead of walking. Since we had walked a great deal already and weren’t totally sure about the best route to get there, we agreed to let someone else navigate for a change.

Off we go!

Kamila and her driver take the lead.

Bal and her driver soon catch up, leaving me in the dust!

The cost was cheap (around $4 CAD each, plus we each gave a $1 tip) and quite a memorable thing to do. At first it felt awkward, like some out-of-place debutante being cycled around town to visit the mayor or something of some such importance. It was clear that only tourists were doing these rickshaw rides but after a few minutes I settled into the neon “tourist” sign I imagined over my head and just enjoyed the ride.

Colourful storefronts on our tour of Hanoi city.

Fruit for sale! Bananas headed for the market.

A lady selling strawberries and peanuts stops to adjust her load outside of a restaurant.

Another restaurant. Outside seating spilling onto the sidewalk is common.

A note of caution if you do take a rickshaw ride anywhere, keep your purse/camera straps wrapped around your arms securely in case of drive-by motorbike thieves. It happens sadly, since some tourists are so taken by the sights that they forget to be careful with their belongings.  The drivers are pretty good about making sure your things are secure before you start, but don’t rely on them – stay alert!

Black market Hello Kitty merch called “Vy Kitty.” Looks just like the real one!

Baskets and traditional Vietnamese hats for sale.

Another colourful sidewalk scene, where motorbikes and lanterns compete for space.

More strawberries!

Some lovely ladies enjoying a chat.

Saw these two soon after! So cute.

A shop owner chills in the shade awaiting tourists to buy her wares.

Jack fruit inspection by a prospective buyer. A lady on her motorbike stops to supervise.

A rare moment when the road is free of traffic.

And thus concludes our mini-tour of Vietnam’s capital city of Hanoi. Most of our time was spent just walking and exploring. For Hanoi in particular we were in search of cheap massages and Hanoi’s famous “egg coffee.” Both were found and we also stumbled upon some unexpected fun as well. I’ll sign off with some shots of Hanoi’s famous egg coffee shop, since photos of our massages would be weird.

Local legend has it that “Thuoc La Dien Tu” was the first cafe to perfect the art of making coffee with egg instead of milk.

Egg coffee, made with whipped egg instead of milk. This method became popular during harder times when milk was not abundant in Vietnam.

Myself, Bal and Kamila at the famous Thuoc La Dien Tu cafe. Bal opted for a hot chocolate but Kamila and I tried an egg coffee and it was delicious!

Next week I’ll be writing about one of the ultimate highlights of our holiday – an overnight cruise ship tour on Halong Bay!

Hello everyone!

Please forgive my absence. As some of you may have known, my dearest friend Bal had been visiting here in Korea over the last 5 weeks. All the way from Brampton to Deokso, my chingu came to see Seoul and later – Vietnam. We spent the first week galavanting around popular places in Seoul like Insadong, Hongdae, the Bukchon Traditional Village and the dead amusement park called Yongma Land.

You may be thinking that some of these places sound familiar…and that’s because I’ve written about some of them before. To read more on Insadong, click here. To check out the traditional village, click here. My solo adventure to Yongma land can be found here, but let me tell you, it was so much fun going back with Bal! Here are some photos of our hijinks at the closed-down Yongma Land.

The gravitational pull is too intense! Bal to the rescue.

We also checked out Changdeokgung Palace, the main palace for most of the kings who ruled during the era of Korea’s Joseon Dynasty.

This is just the tip of the tomfoolery iceberg with our 5 week reunion. I had such a wonderful time showing my friend around my second home. We ate so many delicious Korean foods and checked out a lot of cool things – some expected and some not so much. Then we were off to Vietnam for two weeks and the adventure only increased momentum from there.

All vacationing aside, I wanted to let you my Dear Readers know that I haven’t forgotten you and I’ll be writing on our travels to Vietnam in the weeks to come.  Thank you for your patience my friends :) Be well and stay tuned!

Sanchon serves a unique experience with an evening of traditional temple dishes with a side of traditional Korean dancing and drumming performances. There is only one menu and it’s based on the traditional diet of Buddhist monks. The owner and founder of Sanchon was a monk himself for 18 years and left the monastery to bring temple food to the common people of Korea and the world. All foods are fresh from the mountain, garden and seaside. All dishes are vegan as well so you can stuff your face and still feel good about it!

I’ll let the pictures do the talking for the rest of the food:

Appetizers.

More appetizers.

Main course.

Under the lid! More fresh, leafy side dishes.

Serving Kamila some bean paste soup.

Dessert of dried lotus root, potatoes, sweet potatoes and sweet puffed rice fingers with cinnamon tea.

Traditional folk performances are held nightly from 8pm-8:40. Before the show, we took some pics of the scenery around Sanchon.

Antique armoires.

Home made honey? Not sure.

L-R: Yours truly, Bal and Kamila.

A close-up of some of the artwork on the above armoire.

Some of the natural ingredients seen inside.

A marionette takes a seat at an old piano while we wash up before eating.

The photos of the traditional performances didn’t do those talented ladies a grain of justice, so check out the video here instead:

Overall the food was unique, strange at times but for the most part, delicious. A glimpse of monastery life coupled with the beautiful performances was well-worth the $44 we spent on the evening. Don’t go in expecting food for a western palette. Arrive with an open mind, an empty stomach and you will not be disappointed.

Many comments on visitor review sites noted that Sanchon was hard to find. To combat this, I’ve provided an array of photos so you can walk your way to a temple dinner with ease. First, get off the Seoul Metro at Anguk station (line 3), exit 6. Walk 100m straight towards the 4-way intersection. You’ll be on the same side of the road you need to turn left on, so look for the ‘Insadong-gil’ street name and turn left. Walk down the main strip of the Insadong shopping street. You’ll see street signs like, ‘Insadong 14-gil,’ ‘Insadong 12-gil,’ and so on. Keep walking down.

You’ll see the street sign ‘Insadong 6-gil’ and you want to turn left down the alleyway BEFORE ‘Insadong 6-gil.’

You should see this sign hanging at the entrance of alley, next to the Park Young Jook building.