O.K. guys, this is it.
Lorraine, Gem, Ben, Coman, Heather, Jodie, Trish, Mandy and Leslie: this post goes out to you. I told you a few months ago that I would make it my mission to find out if Polly’s Kettle was still up and running and that day has come.
I went out with a friend to Itaewon (a popular foreigner destination) during Lunar New Year to see what was open and grab some lunch. I mentioned my mission and she was down to help find the lost ark of midnight madness in the Seoul of days gone by. Like me, my friend had lived in Korea 8 years ago and was now back again. She appreciates the value of nostalgia and accepted the challenge, regardless of how many hills we would have to climb. We knew it was up a hill on the left side of the main Itaewon strip but the noted landmark of KFC was no longer there. With no guidance from Colonel Sanders we ended up wandering, climbing random hills on wisps of memory and hopes of signage. It didn’t help that the map I had made was at home and the voyage was, for the most part, spontaneous.
Eventually we came across a steep alley leading up that struck a chord with both of us. We followed our gut and took the trail but the top held nothing but a restaurant and a fancy convenience store.
Dejected and out of breath, we decided to stroll across the crest of the hill to see what else was up there. We had already cut our losses and were discussing lunch when the path curved downward and there it was: Still standing, still open for business and exactly the same.
The hill leading up to Polly’s. You can see why every side street tends to look the same.
The cracked, crooked tiles at the foot of the patio and checkered insides were all unchanged, complete with the partial chain-link fence that still ran along the back of the room. It was like a moment in time, frozen in that sober January afternoon.
The bar adopted the name after its signature drink: the soju kettle. The “kettle” is actually a 2 litre pop bottle with the top sawed off to create a big jug. Into the jug goes an entire bottle of soju, Korea’s national alcohol (360ml), then topped off with a flavoured drink of choice. The flavours were always very kool-aidesque with options like lemon, lime, blueberry, cherry, orange and so on. One kettle was good to share (or not) and only cost 2,000 won (around $2). For those who have never tried soju, it is a flavourless, mild drink that seems light but sneaks up on you, as any alcohol tends to do.
With cheap drinks, good company and awesome music (Usher’s “yeah,” anyone?) it was our memories that made that place a legend. We had so many stories that linked back to Polly’s from back in the day. Whether our nights began or ended there, it was always a riot and Polly’s will always have a place in my heart. Since the bar wasn’t open yet at the time of my visit, I’m not sure if they still serve kettles and to be honest, I’m not sure if I want to tarnish my memories by going back to find out.
Polly’s Kettle is perfect the way I remember it with my old crew of expat chingus and I’m not quite ready to modify that just yet. Maybe one day, but I think I’m getting too old for kettles now ;) For those in Korea who would like to check it out, see the photo below.
Look for Helios pub, above G-Shock and next to Woodstock bar as shown. Turn your back to Helios and cross the intersecton. Follow the side sreet directy across from Helios and you will find Polly’s Kettle.
I taught English in Korea 1996-1998. My dear friends and I have been reminiscing about Holllywood’s, Polly’s, the Burger King on the main street that we used as a landmark (there was no subway station near there at that time), Nashville’s, Seoul Pup (opened by Canadians), Gecko’s (opened in ’98), and some of the less happy places like King Club and the tiny old brothels that lined hooker hill on the way up to King Club – all probably long gone even by the time you were there. Hollywood’s was our landmark until we found the after hours bars in Hongdae like Songsudo and Hodge Podge. We wondered if anything remained from those days, and then we saw this post and I instantly recognized that alley. One time I left my briefcase at the ramyen place on the hill (a big wok with a fire in a barrel under it and I returned in morning and the lady was still making ramyen and had held my bag for me. Incredible to reminisce about these old haunts.
Walking down memory lane tonight and came upon this post. Lived in Kuri-shi in Kyonggi-do 96/97, but stayed on base at a friend’s many weekends. This was a time when your Ontario driver’s license could get you in the back gate because it looked just like a military ID card! Spent our nights at Polly’s and next door at Stompers. And a lot of evenings and hungover Sunday lunches at the Reggae club owned by a Canadian guy. Lifetime ago.
I trier to comment twice. I had an amazing time there well before you were there. By the time you got there, my first base no longer existed. Camp Casey was soon to follow. I have so many fond memories of Korea and Iaetwon. I was stationed at Camps Howze and Casey from 95-96 and 98-99. I remember wild times there and I was young. It was an amazing experience and I hope to return onenday soon.
I trier to comment twice. I had an amazing time there well before you were there. By the time you got there, my first base no longer existed. Camp Casey was soon to follow. I have so many fond memories of Korea and Iaetwon. I was stationed at Camps Howze and Casey from 95-96 and 98-99. I remember wild times there and I was young. It was an amazing experience and I hope to return onenday oon.
I loved Korea in the 90s. I remember Polly’s quite well. I didn’t get there many times but I remember my visits from Howze and Casey very well. I was stationed there in 95-96/98-99. Your post took me back in time to a place and time that I most cherish. Thanks for that. I plan to return and visit “The Land 9f the Morning Calm” again.
I’m not sure but hopefully another reader can help you out!
was there 90 and 91 17th avn bgd my company called me and my roomate the hooker hill brawlers Could make it all the way around the King club with out fighting the East West club would let us sit by the back wall because of the mirrors mp cpl Anderson would always let us slide and send the other guys out of the ville for the night
Was the kettle house next to a club called Liberty club? I was stationed there 98-99
Last I knew the original Polly still actually owned the Debut club about half way up the same hill on the left.
Oh man! Thank you for posting this blog. I enjoy placing stars on my Google map of the places I’ve visited. I was trying to find this place and the infamous soju alley / hooker hill. I do remember it being lower on the hill as someone mentioned. Split my forehead after being slammed into the Heavy Metal logo wall and then sprained my ankle. Also remember all the good Ramen and fried food at the bottom. And like most, I still put American cheese in my Ramen for old time sake. I was 142 MP 95-96 and worked town patrol every so often. Great times that year. I always tell the wife how I want to bring her there but so much has changed.
Actually Pollys Kettle House started across the alley in a small spot. Pollys Kettle House is actually ran by a relative. The original Polly had a little club about half way down the hill but on the same side of alley. I was there for over 10 years between 87 – 2002. Polly was a nice lady – hope she is doing well.
Twilight Zone
A little late to reply.
Yes, the heavy metal club, along with the MTV club. The night usually started at the twilight bar, and depending on the night went to the King club.
I was apart of the 142nd MP Co
Is Miss Polly herself still around? She would be in her 70s at least as of 2018, maybe even her 80s.
The real trick to Polly’s was that it was (still is?) at the top of Hooker Hill. We used to take new guys up there, get a kettle or two in them, then send then down the hill, mostly drunk, with a kettle in hand. A drunk roundeye with a kettle in hand was bound to get surrounded by bar girls before he made it 20 yards down the hill. The goal was to get down in one piece. Rarely did a guy make it all the way down before getting dragged into a hostess bar or hooch.
Halfway down The Hill at Mr Kim’s for ramen with cheese is exactly right! Along with deep fried mandu, potatoes (fries) , those fantastic fries made from Korean potatoes that are the best in the world because of the amazing Korean soil. I still to this day have ramen with a slice of Kraft cheese as a once in awhile comfort food. Love these itaewon and Korea memories. I would love to go back to visit. Korean food and culture is amazing. miss my fellow English and Korean teachers.
Not sure the name of this place, it was halfway down the hill between Polly’s and The Heavy Metal. They made great Raman and cheese w/”some kind of meat”. 😁
I just googled soju kettle and came across this post! I was in Korea from 1996-98… what a place!! Hope to visit again someday!
Kumbae!!
John, did you ever visit the Heavy Metal club?
I too was a regular at Polly’s 91 to 92. Boy I missed going up there and going under the half closed garage door, all the lights off, ordering a kettle and heading back outside. She was such a nice lady.
Awesome, was stationed in Korea 91 to 92. Visited the Kettle House quite often. Thanks for this!
Thank you for the pics and story. Was a regular of Polly’s in 1990-91. She never forgot a name, great lady.
long live Polly’s Kettle!
Such an awesome post and even better memories!
Yeah it was very strange to be back there!
Ohhhhh my gosh! So many memories. This article made me happy and sad all at the same time!!! Miss and love you xoxo
Hi Karli
Pretty amazing presention, you are so brave, and we are so proud of all your accomplishments. You will have to write a book about all your wonderful trips, and everything else you do.
Love you tons, Nanaxxxxxxoooooo
Sweetheart:
Another good one but don’t say you are old. That makes me an even greater Fossil!
Some of those alleys–I dunno–I would want a 150-pound wolf hound on a short leash and starving.
God bless,
lotsa love,
nana and gramp xxoo
Whew! I’m exhausted just reading about your trek. Place looks cool. Nice writing darlin’. Love you!